The big plant producers- hybridizers- keep coming out with "new and improved" everything. They seem to be concerned with lavish, double, gargantuan blooms in an endless array of colors with ridiculous names, and not with dependability, hardiness or longevity. I've tried numerous new, expensive cultivars, and found many to be very short lived and unreliable as far as winter hardiness is concerned. Caveat emptor. Here are a few notes on some of my plants which you may find helpful.
Achillea m. 'Pomegranate' -I've had this one for 3 years, seems to be hardy-excellent color- long blooming.
Agastache f. - short lived but reseeds dependably, licorice scented, long blooming, bees love it.
Ajuga- Deer resistant, common tough ground cover, spreads aggressively. Bumblebees love it. Doesn't like dry soil.
Alcea ficifolia and rugosa- The hollyhocks I have now are seedlings from these parents, both perennial, could be any color, some issues with rust some years. I've also bought a few this year for resale, red, black and mixed. Open winters and wet soil are not helpful for survival.
Alchemilla mollis- Long lived, common, carefree Lady's Mantle does best in partial sun, but will grow in full sun or shade.
Allium schoenoprasum- Chives- nice flowers on an edible plant- Divisions of plants I've had forever, 40+ years
Allium tuberosum- Nice white, late summer blooms on the Garlic Chives- it self sows aggressively. Deadhead it unless you want hundred of seedlings. Bees love it. Edible.
Anemone- nice late season pink blooms, sun to shade, but a bit aggressive.
Anthemis tinctoria- Sometimes called Golden Marguerite, this one blooms forever if deadheaded, but you need to leave a few flowers to self sow and replace the short lived parents. Give it average soil, not too rich, and full sun or it gets floppy.
Aquilegia- Columbine seem to perform best for me when they self seed themselves into places where I would not plant them!
Aralia c. 'Sun King' -Wicked showy foliage in partial sun, shade. Can take full sun.
Armoracea- Never forget where your Horseradish is and rototill it in, or you'll end up like my father did with hundreds of plants!
Artremisia schmidtiana- Silvermound -I've given up on these because of their unreliability overwintering.
Asarum europeum - European Ginger -Shiny, evergreen, low ground cover, always looks nice in shade. Hidden purple flowers.
Asarum canadensis- not sure who pollinates this Native, the purple flowers are early, hidden, and practically on the ground.
Asclepias tuberosa -Native Butterfly weed likes full sun and well drained soil- never wet feet in winter. I almost always lose some to overwintering rot. Frustrating. Not a lot of orange perennials out there- I have poor luck overwintering Gaillardia.
Asclepias incarnata- Unlike tuberosa, the Swamp Milkweed loves wet soil, will grow in shallow water, but also will grow in average garden soil. Funny thing about Milkweeds, their sap is said to be poisonous, yet at least 5 different insects feed on them- an Aphid, two Beetles, one true Bug, and two Caterpillars! (that includes Monarchs)
Asters- Nice late summer flowers, also bee and butterfly attracters. Native.
Astilbes- Nice foliage, nice flowers but not long bloomers though. Moist soil a must, especially in sun.
Astrantia m. -Long blooming light pink, unusual flowers attract unusual pollinators.
Baptisia -The species australis is long lived- my plants are seedlings from two parent plants at least 50 years old! The newer expensive cultivars have given me some trouble with foliage problems, so I've given up on them.
Buddleja- Butterfly Bush is an incredible butterfly attracter, but its longevity is impossible to predict. It may live 1 year, maybe 3, but seldom more, at least not for me! I'd never pay more than 7 bucks for one. (I'm 11th generation Yankee) See Vernonia sub.
Callamintha- long blooming, great scented foliage, well drained soil.
Campsis - The vigorous, rugged Trumpet vine. Keep it trimmed or give it plenty of room- no wimpy trellis. Can be trained like a shrub. Hummingbird magnet. Salmony orange blossoms.
Centaurea montana -Perennial Batchelor Button. Nice in bloom, but cut it back after, as the foliage is messy. Usually reblooms.
Chelone - Turtlehead is a nice mid-late summer bloomer. Rugged, long lived, will grow in shallow water.
Cimicifuga racemosa- Bugbane. Native, invasive over time, don't plant it near a window, as the flowers don't smell good.
Cimicifuga "Brunette" NOT this year again. Slow growing and near impossible to find replacements. Frustrating.
Clematis -One of only two plants I don't propagate myself- (the other being Lupines), divisions are too slow, stem cuttings are too labor/time intensive. I buy several varieties wholesale and resell them, making almost NO profit doing so, but I like them, so...you get them ridiculously cheap.
Codonopsis pilosula- Poor Man's Ginseng, really odd greenish/white flowers on a 5 foot vine- roots are medicinal.
Convallaria- I often forget my Lily of the Valleys are in bloom, only to be reminded by their wonderful fragrance that fills the air. Invasive though, and tough as nails. If you manage to kill these, please find a new hobby.
Coreopsis "Zagreb" I wish the hybridizers would use this one in their work- it is extremely hardy, vigorous and long lived, much more so than "Moonbeam", which blooms longer though. I've tried a number of other cultivars which were unreliable wintering over. Beware of pink or red varieties, I've yet to find a dependably winter hardy one.
Corydalis lutea- extremely long bloomer for shade or part sun. Self sows. Will naturalize in a shade garden.
Corydalis sempervirens- A native, fast reproducing biennial that likes full sun, average to poor soil. Tiny pink/yellow flowers. Self sows nicely. Hummingbirds.
Darmera- Damp soil a must for the Umbrella Plant. Early white flowers on single stalks before the huge leaves unfurl.
Delphiniums- I'll have a few this year which I've purchased, even though sadly I don't have much luck with them.
Dianthus "Firewitch"- Fragrant, long lived, nice blue- green foliage, full sun, well drained soil. Great plant.
Dicentra spectabilis - The foliage of Bleeding Heart turns yellow early, so hide it behind something that grows taller later.
Digitalis purpurea- The common Foxglove is a short lived perennial/biennial but usually self sows prolifically. You need to let the babies grow as replacements- don't go crazy mulching or weeding. You need to have flowering plants for two years in a row to have flowering plants every year.
Digitalis lutea - This perennial Foxglove has yellow blooms that are smaller and less dramatic than its cousins', but it attracts Hummingbirds like no ones' business.
Draba -4 inch high early mat of nice yellow blooms, first Spring flowering perennial in sunny spots. Worth it for earliness.
Echinacea- I've tried several of the newer expensive Coneflower cultivars and have been disappointed by their unreliability overwintering. I stick with the species purpurea, the older cultivars and their seedlings. I'd like to try a few new varieties (there's a lot), but they're too expensive and I'm not a gambler.
Epimediums - The Barrenworts are great shade plants, even in dry shade. Short flowering time but good foliage. Rugged. They're another plant that I'd like to try other varieties, but I wouldn't make any profit.
Eupatorium -Joe Pye is a nice, tall, late lavender bloomer. Attracts a lot of pollinators and likes wet feet, but it will grow in average garden soil. Sturdy too. Native.
Ferns- I appreciate all of them for their foliage, longevity, and ease of culture. Some are native.
Filipendula ulmaria- Meadowsweet grows best in damp soil, flowers are fragrant and attract a lot of different pollinators, but you should deadhead them to prevent rampant self seeding.
Gaillardia- I've given up on the Blanketflower simply because of problems I have overwintering it. If you buy one somewhere, plant it in well drained soil in full sun.
Geranium "Rozanne" All the perennial Geraniums are worthy plants- "Rozanne" is the second longest blooming perennial behind Tradescantia. A bit floppy though.
Geranium p. Samobor -beautiful foliage, really deep purple flowers, part sun, moist soil seems best. Self sows.
Gillenia- Bowmans Root is an unappreciated, little known plant. Attractive foliage, 3 feet tall, delicate white flowers of short duration. Partial shade.
Grasses - I like the grasses, but I'm not fond of lawns. Spring, summer, fall into winter. Foliage, seed heads, color, form, texture, shape. For the shade, Carex "Blue Zinger" and Hakonechloa "All Gold" are my favorite contrasting blue/yellow grasses. Miscanthus "Purpurascens", Callamagrostis "Karl Foerster", and Panicum "Heavy Metal" are three of my ruggedest, tall sun lovers. None of these 5 died in the horrible winter of '18-'19. Chasmanthium- Northern Sea Oats, has striking seed heads, is great as a cut flower, and can take a bit of shade.
Heliopsis h.- Long bloomer, good cut flower. Some reddish variations have crossed pollen in my gardens, and now I can not be sure exactly what color each seedling will be- all yellow, all red, or some combination. Reddish stems usually mean at least some red in the flowers. Aphids can be a problem, but they are easy to kill with a squirt of dish soap in a water spray bottle.
Hellebores- I'm restricted to growing my own seedlings and divisions as the wholesale price of plants is not in my budget. They are among my favorites- attractive evergreen foliage, early and long lasting flowers, reliable and deer and vole resistant.
Hemerocallis- If you want some newly released variety of Daylily, you'll need to buy them elsewhere, as the cost of these are sky high. I have a pretty good selection of older varieties of plants though, and Daylilies are hard to kill.
Heucheras- Coral Bells are an enigma to me. I'll put 50 plants in shade, 50 in sun, and 50 in a mixture, and I'll have a whole array of different success rates. In each bed, some plants will be stunning, some will be o.k., some will look like death warmed over, and some will die! Can't figure them out. They do look good though- when they're healthy. If they do well for you, tell me your secrets, and which varieties you like.
Hibiscus- The last perennial to emerge from hibernation in the spring. Be patient. Don't dig it out thinking it's dead. NOT AVAILABLE THIS YEAR, I messed up last year(again) with seedlings.
Hosta- You can't kill a Hosta. I have a fair selection-25 or so varieties, but again, if you're looking for a newly released cultivar, look elsewhere, as the new varieties are way too expensive for me when first released.
Hydrangea a.- This slow growing (at first) rugged vine has beautiful bark and white flowers when mature.
Inula r. - A ten footer! Late yellow blooms, doesn't mind wet feet, but it does self sow a lot. Bees, butterflies. Leans a bit.
Iris germanica- Well drained soil a must for these old fashioned standards. I have 4 colors, most in short supply. Wholesale plants have become scarce and prices are outrageous. Not sure why. Probably that capitalistic trio- supply, demand and price gouging.
Kitabelia- 6 feet, long flowering white mallow like blooms, maple leaf foliage. Sun to shade. Bees, butterflies.
Lamium m.- Nice variegated foliage looks great right into winter. Off and on long blooming. Sun or shade.
Leucanthemum "Becky" -A very sturdy upright Shasta Daisy that is hardy and doesn't flop in rain or wind. Probably the best one.
Ligularia - All the Ligularias like morning sun, afternoon shade and moist soil. Slugs attack "Desdemona" and "Brit Marie Crawford"- I spread a non-toxic slug bait that contains iron phosphate as soon as the snow melts and once or twice a month after that. L. fischeri blooms with yellow spikes at 3 feet tall in September, October, unlike most shade plants. Its seed heads look great in November.
Lobelia cardinalis -The brilliant scarlet red, native Cardinal Flower needs wet soil or to be underwater to overwinter well. Along with red Bee Balm, it's the best hummingbird magnet.
Lobelia syphilitica - Great Blue Lobelia self sows prolifically- deadhead it soon after blooming, unless you want a lot more.
Lupines- A nostalgia plant for many, its huge demand is the only reason I sell it! They're short flowering, have unattractive foliage after flowering, are aphid magnets, and need to reseed themselves to replace the short lived parents. There is now a disease affecting seedlings, so I now just buy and resell plants and don't make much profit. Sorry to burst your bubble.
Lychnis coronaria- Biennial or short lived perennial, you have to let Rose Campion self seed and take care not to weed out or mulch over the replacement seedlings. Striking fuchsia blooms against gray foliage. Doesn't like wet feet.
Lysimachia n. 'Aurea' -very fast spreader, moist soil, sun to shade.
Monarda d. "Gardenview Scarlet" - My favorite Bee Balm. It loves to be divided every 2 or 3 years. Loves compost. Hummingbirds love it. I keep trying new cultivars and am disappointed by their lack of vigor and reliability over-wintering.
Myosotis- The Forget-Me-Not is a biennial/short lived perennial which seeds in reliably unless you mulch heavily or weed out the babies. Let it do its thing, sun or shade. I think it looks nice with dandelions...
Nepeta "Walker's Low"- This is Catmint, not Catnip, but cats with addiction issues are sometimes attracted to it. Long bloomer.
Nepeta subsellis -another long bloomer, appreciates moister soil than above, will take more shade, has larger blooms.
Oenothera- extremely bright yellow, average soil, these are divisions of plants I've had over 40 years.
Papaver orientale - I'm done growing and selling Oriental Poppies. Customers sometimes have a hard time growing them in spring and no one wants to buy them in September when they should be transplanted.
Paeonia- Peonies are increasingly hard to sell at $7, as they're slow to divide, slower to grow from seed if at all, and wholesale prices make them out of reach for me, so I only sell my own stock. Long lived and sun loving, plant the 'eyes' 2" below the soil surface and leave them alone for 10 or 20 years. Don't fret about the ants, they're not hurting a thing.
Penstemon "Dark Towers"- A favorite of mine, attractive purple foliage in full sun from May to October, pink flowers. The seedheads are as attractive as the flowers if not more so.
Perovskia - Full sun for the Russian Sage, average, well drained soil. Slow growing. Some folks have trouble with this one.
Persicaria bistorta "Superba" - Nice pink bottlebrush blooms, likes partial sun, moist rich soil.
Persicaria polymorpha- At 6 feet tall and very wide, give it plenty of room. White plumes over an extremely long time. Sun.
Phlomis t. -Unusual donut- like lavender blooms on tall stems and nice foliage, partial sun.
Phlox paniculata- All of my tall Phlox are mildew resistant. Two of my own self propagated pink/purple varieties bloom very late- September into October.
Phlox subulata- I grow 'Drummonds Pink' and 'Blue Emerald', two of the best Creeping Phlox in my opinion.
Platycodon- Balloon flowers need well drained soil. Long blooming, long lived, usually late emerging in spring.
Primula- I like the Primroses, and I keep trying new species. P. heucherifolia seems to grow best in compacted soil! P. japonica must have constantly moist to wet soil, and will reseed itself vigorously.
Pulmonaria- I like the Lungworts too. They have crossed pollen and seeded themselves in my gardens for 35 or more years, so I have a lot of plants with differing silver spots and overlays in the leaves, with flowers in shades of blue, pink, salmon and occasionally white. Hummingbirds visit them immediately on their return from the south- it's where I usually spot my first homecoming hummer. Honey and bumblebees are also on them in early spring. Their foliage is beautiful right into winter.
Rodgersia- A slow growing shade lover with huge leaves, the Rogers Flower is another of my favorites. Long lived, low maintenance. The seed heads are as attractive as the creamy white Astilbe-like flowers. Moist shade is best.
Rudbeckia fulgida f. -Long lived, long flowering, disease resistant, classic Brown Eyed Susan.
Salvia transylvanica- Unlike most Salvia cultivars, this species has an open airy habit. All Salvias benefit from deadheading.
Sanguinaria- The Bloodroot is a very early blooming shade plant. Unfortunately the bright white flowers don't last long. Odd foliage, native. I mostly have a very limited number of double ones.
Sanguisorba- White spikes in September, October, attractive foliage, and the Canadian Burnett will grow in wet soil or even water. Native, though I've yet to see it in the wild. One of the last blooms for bees, and they love it.
Sedum- Most like well drained soil in full sun. All attract honeybees. "Angelina" is gorgeous, appearing with orangy/bronze foliage when the snow departs. "Autumn Joy" is classic, common, but very reliable. I've had Sedum acre for 40 years. "John Creech" is a great dense ground cover with pink blooms.
Silene armeria is a biennial that self seeds prolifically. I've also had it in my gardens for over 40 years! Butterflies like mad.
Silphium perfoliatum- I can't sell it anymore. The state of Maine has added it to their invasive plants list- I've grown it for 20 plus years without a problem and usually don't have many plants to sell. Why this one is on the list is beyond me.
Stylophorum- This plant appeared in my shade gardens one year from who knows where. Nice foliage and beautiful flowers.
Symphytum o. -propagated by root cuttings so don't rototill it in!
Succisa p. -Nice plant, shade or sun, lavender, marble sized flowers in August, September. Bees and butterflies.
Tanacetum p.- Feverfew self seeds prolifically, long bloomer of small white daisies, shade or sun. Medicinal.
Telekia- A fast grower reaching 5 feet and having golden yellow daisies in June. I cut some of the flower stems back when they're done and the plant puts out huge basal leaves and sometimes more flowers. Sun or shade, bees and butterflies.
Tradescantia- This colorful Spiderwort propagated itself in my gardens a few years back from various colored parents. It's a beautiful blueish purple, and it doesn't spread rampantly like some varieties. The longest blooming plant I grow, from Memorial Day into November. Its flowers do close up on a sunny afternoon. Honeybees love it.
Tricyrtis h. -The common Toad Lily blooms beautifully in September, October, but needs to be seen close up to be appreciated.
Verbascum c.- Another favorite, very showy, long blooming yellow or white spikes with purple stamens and orange pollen, the foliage on this Mullein is a bit coarse and not extremely attractive, but the flowers more than make up for that. Part shade or sun, it is a Bumble and Honey Bee magnet. Early in the morning, I can hear their buzzing on a single plant from 40 or more feet away. Flowers close in the afternoon in full sun, lasting longer in more shade. Reseeds itself a lot.
Vernonia n.- Ironweed is a good substitute for Buddleja- Butterfly bush. It doesn't flower as long, but it is long lived and dependable, and it attracts butterflies like mad. Sometimes 7 feet tall or more.
Viola tricolor- Johnny Jump Ups self seed prolifically, the current years seedlings will bloom late, so once established, you have blooms from very early spring to late autumn.
Achillea m. 'Pomegranate' -I've had this one for 3 years, seems to be hardy-excellent color- long blooming.
Agastache f. - short lived but reseeds dependably, licorice scented, long blooming, bees love it.
Ajuga- Deer resistant, common tough ground cover, spreads aggressively. Bumblebees love it. Doesn't like dry soil.
Alcea ficifolia and rugosa- The hollyhocks I have now are seedlings from these parents, both perennial, could be any color, some issues with rust some years. I've also bought a few this year for resale, red, black and mixed. Open winters and wet soil are not helpful for survival.
Alchemilla mollis- Long lived, common, carefree Lady's Mantle does best in partial sun, but will grow in full sun or shade.
Allium schoenoprasum- Chives- nice flowers on an edible plant- Divisions of plants I've had forever, 40+ years
Allium tuberosum- Nice white, late summer blooms on the Garlic Chives- it self sows aggressively. Deadhead it unless you want hundred of seedlings. Bees love it. Edible.
Anemone- nice late season pink blooms, sun to shade, but a bit aggressive.
Anthemis tinctoria- Sometimes called Golden Marguerite, this one blooms forever if deadheaded, but you need to leave a few flowers to self sow and replace the short lived parents. Give it average soil, not too rich, and full sun or it gets floppy.
Aquilegia- Columbine seem to perform best for me when they self seed themselves into places where I would not plant them!
Aralia c. 'Sun King' -Wicked showy foliage in partial sun, shade. Can take full sun.
Armoracea- Never forget where your Horseradish is and rototill it in, or you'll end up like my father did with hundreds of plants!
Artremisia schmidtiana- Silvermound -I've given up on these because of their unreliability overwintering.
Asarum europeum - European Ginger -Shiny, evergreen, low ground cover, always looks nice in shade. Hidden purple flowers.
Asarum canadensis- not sure who pollinates this Native, the purple flowers are early, hidden, and practically on the ground.
Asclepias tuberosa -Native Butterfly weed likes full sun and well drained soil- never wet feet in winter. I almost always lose some to overwintering rot. Frustrating. Not a lot of orange perennials out there- I have poor luck overwintering Gaillardia.
Asclepias incarnata- Unlike tuberosa, the Swamp Milkweed loves wet soil, will grow in shallow water, but also will grow in average garden soil. Funny thing about Milkweeds, their sap is said to be poisonous, yet at least 5 different insects feed on them- an Aphid, two Beetles, one true Bug, and two Caterpillars! (that includes Monarchs)
Asters- Nice late summer flowers, also bee and butterfly attracters. Native.
Astilbes- Nice foliage, nice flowers but not long bloomers though. Moist soil a must, especially in sun.
Astrantia m. -Long blooming light pink, unusual flowers attract unusual pollinators.
Baptisia -The species australis is long lived- my plants are seedlings from two parent plants at least 50 years old! The newer expensive cultivars have given me some trouble with foliage problems, so I've given up on them.
Buddleja- Butterfly Bush is an incredible butterfly attracter, but its longevity is impossible to predict. It may live 1 year, maybe 3, but seldom more, at least not for me! I'd never pay more than 7 bucks for one. (I'm 11th generation Yankee) See Vernonia sub.
Callamintha- long blooming, great scented foliage, well drained soil.
Campsis - The vigorous, rugged Trumpet vine. Keep it trimmed or give it plenty of room- no wimpy trellis. Can be trained like a shrub. Hummingbird magnet. Salmony orange blossoms.
Centaurea montana -Perennial Batchelor Button. Nice in bloom, but cut it back after, as the foliage is messy. Usually reblooms.
Chelone - Turtlehead is a nice mid-late summer bloomer. Rugged, long lived, will grow in shallow water.
Cimicifuga racemosa- Bugbane. Native, invasive over time, don't plant it near a window, as the flowers don't smell good.
Cimicifuga "Brunette" NOT this year again. Slow growing and near impossible to find replacements. Frustrating.
Clematis -One of only two plants I don't propagate myself- (the other being Lupines), divisions are too slow, stem cuttings are too labor/time intensive. I buy several varieties wholesale and resell them, making almost NO profit doing so, but I like them, so...you get them ridiculously cheap.
Codonopsis pilosula- Poor Man's Ginseng, really odd greenish/white flowers on a 5 foot vine- roots are medicinal.
Convallaria- I often forget my Lily of the Valleys are in bloom, only to be reminded by their wonderful fragrance that fills the air. Invasive though, and tough as nails. If you manage to kill these, please find a new hobby.
Coreopsis "Zagreb" I wish the hybridizers would use this one in their work- it is extremely hardy, vigorous and long lived, much more so than "Moonbeam", which blooms longer though. I've tried a number of other cultivars which were unreliable wintering over. Beware of pink or red varieties, I've yet to find a dependably winter hardy one.
Corydalis lutea- extremely long bloomer for shade or part sun. Self sows. Will naturalize in a shade garden.
Corydalis sempervirens- A native, fast reproducing biennial that likes full sun, average to poor soil. Tiny pink/yellow flowers. Self sows nicely. Hummingbirds.
Darmera- Damp soil a must for the Umbrella Plant. Early white flowers on single stalks before the huge leaves unfurl.
Delphiniums- I'll have a few this year which I've purchased, even though sadly I don't have much luck with them.
Dianthus "Firewitch"- Fragrant, long lived, nice blue- green foliage, full sun, well drained soil. Great plant.
Dicentra spectabilis - The foliage of Bleeding Heart turns yellow early, so hide it behind something that grows taller later.
Digitalis purpurea- The common Foxglove is a short lived perennial/biennial but usually self sows prolifically. You need to let the babies grow as replacements- don't go crazy mulching or weeding. You need to have flowering plants for two years in a row to have flowering plants every year.
Digitalis lutea - This perennial Foxglove has yellow blooms that are smaller and less dramatic than its cousins', but it attracts Hummingbirds like no ones' business.
Draba -4 inch high early mat of nice yellow blooms, first Spring flowering perennial in sunny spots. Worth it for earliness.
Echinacea- I've tried several of the newer expensive Coneflower cultivars and have been disappointed by their unreliability overwintering. I stick with the species purpurea, the older cultivars and their seedlings. I'd like to try a few new varieties (there's a lot), but they're too expensive and I'm not a gambler.
Epimediums - The Barrenworts are great shade plants, even in dry shade. Short flowering time but good foliage. Rugged. They're another plant that I'd like to try other varieties, but I wouldn't make any profit.
Eupatorium -Joe Pye is a nice, tall, late lavender bloomer. Attracts a lot of pollinators and likes wet feet, but it will grow in average garden soil. Sturdy too. Native.
Ferns- I appreciate all of them for their foliage, longevity, and ease of culture. Some are native.
Filipendula ulmaria- Meadowsweet grows best in damp soil, flowers are fragrant and attract a lot of different pollinators, but you should deadhead them to prevent rampant self seeding.
Gaillardia- I've given up on the Blanketflower simply because of problems I have overwintering it. If you buy one somewhere, plant it in well drained soil in full sun.
Geranium "Rozanne" All the perennial Geraniums are worthy plants- "Rozanne" is the second longest blooming perennial behind Tradescantia. A bit floppy though.
Geranium p. Samobor -beautiful foliage, really deep purple flowers, part sun, moist soil seems best. Self sows.
Gillenia- Bowmans Root is an unappreciated, little known plant. Attractive foliage, 3 feet tall, delicate white flowers of short duration. Partial shade.
Grasses - I like the grasses, but I'm not fond of lawns. Spring, summer, fall into winter. Foliage, seed heads, color, form, texture, shape. For the shade, Carex "Blue Zinger" and Hakonechloa "All Gold" are my favorite contrasting blue/yellow grasses. Miscanthus "Purpurascens", Callamagrostis "Karl Foerster", and Panicum "Heavy Metal" are three of my ruggedest, tall sun lovers. None of these 5 died in the horrible winter of '18-'19. Chasmanthium- Northern Sea Oats, has striking seed heads, is great as a cut flower, and can take a bit of shade.
Heliopsis h.- Long bloomer, good cut flower. Some reddish variations have crossed pollen in my gardens, and now I can not be sure exactly what color each seedling will be- all yellow, all red, or some combination. Reddish stems usually mean at least some red in the flowers. Aphids can be a problem, but they are easy to kill with a squirt of dish soap in a water spray bottle.
Hellebores- I'm restricted to growing my own seedlings and divisions as the wholesale price of plants is not in my budget. They are among my favorites- attractive evergreen foliage, early and long lasting flowers, reliable and deer and vole resistant.
Hemerocallis- If you want some newly released variety of Daylily, you'll need to buy them elsewhere, as the cost of these are sky high. I have a pretty good selection of older varieties of plants though, and Daylilies are hard to kill.
Heucheras- Coral Bells are an enigma to me. I'll put 50 plants in shade, 50 in sun, and 50 in a mixture, and I'll have a whole array of different success rates. In each bed, some plants will be stunning, some will be o.k., some will look like death warmed over, and some will die! Can't figure them out. They do look good though- when they're healthy. If they do well for you, tell me your secrets, and which varieties you like.
Hibiscus- The last perennial to emerge from hibernation in the spring. Be patient. Don't dig it out thinking it's dead. NOT AVAILABLE THIS YEAR, I messed up last year(again) with seedlings.
Hosta- You can't kill a Hosta. I have a fair selection-25 or so varieties, but again, if you're looking for a newly released cultivar, look elsewhere, as the new varieties are way too expensive for me when first released.
Hydrangea a.- This slow growing (at first) rugged vine has beautiful bark and white flowers when mature.
Inula r. - A ten footer! Late yellow blooms, doesn't mind wet feet, but it does self sow a lot. Bees, butterflies. Leans a bit.
Iris germanica- Well drained soil a must for these old fashioned standards. I have 4 colors, most in short supply. Wholesale plants have become scarce and prices are outrageous. Not sure why. Probably that capitalistic trio- supply, demand and price gouging.
Kitabelia- 6 feet, long flowering white mallow like blooms, maple leaf foliage. Sun to shade. Bees, butterflies.
Lamium m.- Nice variegated foliage looks great right into winter. Off and on long blooming. Sun or shade.
Leucanthemum "Becky" -A very sturdy upright Shasta Daisy that is hardy and doesn't flop in rain or wind. Probably the best one.
Ligularia - All the Ligularias like morning sun, afternoon shade and moist soil. Slugs attack "Desdemona" and "Brit Marie Crawford"- I spread a non-toxic slug bait that contains iron phosphate as soon as the snow melts and once or twice a month after that. L. fischeri blooms with yellow spikes at 3 feet tall in September, October, unlike most shade plants. Its seed heads look great in November.
Lobelia cardinalis -The brilliant scarlet red, native Cardinal Flower needs wet soil or to be underwater to overwinter well. Along with red Bee Balm, it's the best hummingbird magnet.
Lobelia syphilitica - Great Blue Lobelia self sows prolifically- deadhead it soon after blooming, unless you want a lot more.
Lupines- A nostalgia plant for many, its huge demand is the only reason I sell it! They're short flowering, have unattractive foliage after flowering, are aphid magnets, and need to reseed themselves to replace the short lived parents. There is now a disease affecting seedlings, so I now just buy and resell plants and don't make much profit. Sorry to burst your bubble.
Lychnis coronaria- Biennial or short lived perennial, you have to let Rose Campion self seed and take care not to weed out or mulch over the replacement seedlings. Striking fuchsia blooms against gray foliage. Doesn't like wet feet.
Lysimachia n. 'Aurea' -very fast spreader, moist soil, sun to shade.
Monarda d. "Gardenview Scarlet" - My favorite Bee Balm. It loves to be divided every 2 or 3 years. Loves compost. Hummingbirds love it. I keep trying new cultivars and am disappointed by their lack of vigor and reliability over-wintering.
Myosotis- The Forget-Me-Not is a biennial/short lived perennial which seeds in reliably unless you mulch heavily or weed out the babies. Let it do its thing, sun or shade. I think it looks nice with dandelions...
Nepeta "Walker's Low"- This is Catmint, not Catnip, but cats with addiction issues are sometimes attracted to it. Long bloomer.
Nepeta subsellis -another long bloomer, appreciates moister soil than above, will take more shade, has larger blooms.
Oenothera- extremely bright yellow, average soil, these are divisions of plants I've had over 40 years.
Papaver orientale - I'm done growing and selling Oriental Poppies. Customers sometimes have a hard time growing them in spring and no one wants to buy them in September when they should be transplanted.
Paeonia- Peonies are increasingly hard to sell at $7, as they're slow to divide, slower to grow from seed if at all, and wholesale prices make them out of reach for me, so I only sell my own stock. Long lived and sun loving, plant the 'eyes' 2" below the soil surface and leave them alone for 10 or 20 years. Don't fret about the ants, they're not hurting a thing.
Penstemon "Dark Towers"- A favorite of mine, attractive purple foliage in full sun from May to October, pink flowers. The seedheads are as attractive as the flowers if not more so.
Perovskia - Full sun for the Russian Sage, average, well drained soil. Slow growing. Some folks have trouble with this one.
Persicaria bistorta "Superba" - Nice pink bottlebrush blooms, likes partial sun, moist rich soil.
Persicaria polymorpha- At 6 feet tall and very wide, give it plenty of room. White plumes over an extremely long time. Sun.
Phlomis t. -Unusual donut- like lavender blooms on tall stems and nice foliage, partial sun.
Phlox paniculata- All of my tall Phlox are mildew resistant. Two of my own self propagated pink/purple varieties bloom very late- September into October.
Phlox subulata- I grow 'Drummonds Pink' and 'Blue Emerald', two of the best Creeping Phlox in my opinion.
Platycodon- Balloon flowers need well drained soil. Long blooming, long lived, usually late emerging in spring.
Primula- I like the Primroses, and I keep trying new species. P. heucherifolia seems to grow best in compacted soil! P. japonica must have constantly moist to wet soil, and will reseed itself vigorously.
Pulmonaria- I like the Lungworts too. They have crossed pollen and seeded themselves in my gardens for 35 or more years, so I have a lot of plants with differing silver spots and overlays in the leaves, with flowers in shades of blue, pink, salmon and occasionally white. Hummingbirds visit them immediately on their return from the south- it's where I usually spot my first homecoming hummer. Honey and bumblebees are also on them in early spring. Their foliage is beautiful right into winter.
Rodgersia- A slow growing shade lover with huge leaves, the Rogers Flower is another of my favorites. Long lived, low maintenance. The seed heads are as attractive as the creamy white Astilbe-like flowers. Moist shade is best.
Rudbeckia fulgida f. -Long lived, long flowering, disease resistant, classic Brown Eyed Susan.
Salvia transylvanica- Unlike most Salvia cultivars, this species has an open airy habit. All Salvias benefit from deadheading.
Sanguinaria- The Bloodroot is a very early blooming shade plant. Unfortunately the bright white flowers don't last long. Odd foliage, native. I mostly have a very limited number of double ones.
Sanguisorba- White spikes in September, October, attractive foliage, and the Canadian Burnett will grow in wet soil or even water. Native, though I've yet to see it in the wild. One of the last blooms for bees, and they love it.
Sedum- Most like well drained soil in full sun. All attract honeybees. "Angelina" is gorgeous, appearing with orangy/bronze foliage when the snow departs. "Autumn Joy" is classic, common, but very reliable. I've had Sedum acre for 40 years. "John Creech" is a great dense ground cover with pink blooms.
Silene armeria is a biennial that self seeds prolifically. I've also had it in my gardens for over 40 years! Butterflies like mad.
Silphium perfoliatum- I can't sell it anymore. The state of Maine has added it to their invasive plants list- I've grown it for 20 plus years without a problem and usually don't have many plants to sell. Why this one is on the list is beyond me.
Stylophorum- This plant appeared in my shade gardens one year from who knows where. Nice foliage and beautiful flowers.
Symphytum o. -propagated by root cuttings so don't rototill it in!
Succisa p. -Nice plant, shade or sun, lavender, marble sized flowers in August, September. Bees and butterflies.
Tanacetum p.- Feverfew self seeds prolifically, long bloomer of small white daisies, shade or sun. Medicinal.
Telekia- A fast grower reaching 5 feet and having golden yellow daisies in June. I cut some of the flower stems back when they're done and the plant puts out huge basal leaves and sometimes more flowers. Sun or shade, bees and butterflies.
Tradescantia- This colorful Spiderwort propagated itself in my gardens a few years back from various colored parents. It's a beautiful blueish purple, and it doesn't spread rampantly like some varieties. The longest blooming plant I grow, from Memorial Day into November. Its flowers do close up on a sunny afternoon. Honeybees love it.
Tricyrtis h. -The common Toad Lily blooms beautifully in September, October, but needs to be seen close up to be appreciated.
Verbascum c.- Another favorite, very showy, long blooming yellow or white spikes with purple stamens and orange pollen, the foliage on this Mullein is a bit coarse and not extremely attractive, but the flowers more than make up for that. Part shade or sun, it is a Bumble and Honey Bee magnet. Early in the morning, I can hear their buzzing on a single plant from 40 or more feet away. Flowers close in the afternoon in full sun, lasting longer in more shade. Reseeds itself a lot.
Vernonia n.- Ironweed is a good substitute for Buddleja- Butterfly bush. It doesn't flower as long, but it is long lived and dependable, and it attracts butterflies like mad. Sometimes 7 feet tall or more.
Viola tricolor- Johnny Jump Ups self seed prolifically, the current years seedlings will bloom late, so once established, you have blooms from very early spring to late autumn.