The big plant producers- hybridizers- keep coming out with "new and improved" everything. They seem to be concerned with lavish, double, gargantuan blooms in an endless array of colors with ridiculous names, and not with dependability, hardiness or longevity. I've tried numerous new, expensive cultivars, and found many to be short lived and unreliable as far as winter hardiness is concerned. Caveat emptor. Here are a few notes on some of my plants which you may find helpful.
Achillea filipendula is the most long lived and reliable of the Yarrows, but it still may last only 5 years or so. Keep your eye out for scattered seedlings to replace the parent. My soil may be too rich for their tastes!
Achillea m. 'Pomegranate' I've had this one for 2 years, fingers crossed- seems to be hardy-excellent color.
Aconitum fischeri- nice autumn color, foliage is the best of the Monkshoods, DON'T eat- poisonous.
Agastache f. - short lived but reseeds dependably, licorice scented, bees love it.
Ajuga- Deer resistant, common tough ground cover, spreads aggressively. Bumblebees love it. Doesn't like dry soil.
Alcea ficifolia- This true perennial Hollyhock is supposedly rust resistant- it ain't, but it is spectacular and tall-10 feet plus.
Alchemilla mollis- Long lived, common, carefree Lady's Mantle does best in partial sun.
Allium schoenoprasum- Chives- nice flowers on an edible plant-I've had these forever, 35+ years
Allium tuberosum- Nice, late season white blooms on the Garlic Chives, but self sows aggressively. Deadhead it unless you want hundred of seedlings. Bees love it.
Anthemis tinctoria- Sometimes called Golden Marguerite, this one blooms forever if deadheaded, but you need to leave a few flowers to self sow and replace the short lived parents. Give it average soil.
Aquilegia- Columbine seem to perform best for me when they self seed themselves into places where I would not plant them!
Armoracea- Never forget where your Horseradish is and rototill it in, or you'll end up like my father did with hundreds of plants!
Artremisia schmidtiana- Silvermound -I've given up on these because of their unreliability overwintering. One winter I lost 50 out of 70 plants.
Asarum europeum European Ginger -Shiny, evergreen, low ground cover, always looks nice in shade.
Asclepias tuberosa -Butterfly weed likes full sun and well drained soil- never wet feet in winter. I almost always lose some to overwintering rot. Frustrating. Not a lot of orange perennials out there. Aphids sometimes a problem.
Asclepias incarnata- Unlike tuberosa, the Swamp Milkweed loves wet soil and will grow in shallow water. All Asclepias are host plants for Monarch Butterflies, and are honeybee and butterfly attracters. I've had problems with aphids on them. '19 was a bad year for them. Native.
Asters- Nice late summer flowers, also bee and butterfly attracters.
Astilbes- Nice foliage, nice flowers but not long bloomers though. Moist soil a must, especially in sun.
Baptisia -The species australis is long lived- my plants are seedlings from a parent plant 50 years old! The newer expensive cultivars have given me some trouble with foliage problems.
Buddleja- Butterfly Bush is an incredible butterfly attracter, but its longevity is impossible to predict. It may live 1 year, maybe 3, but seldom more. I'd never pay more than 6 bucks for one. (11th generation Yankee here!) See Vernonia as a sub.
Campanula glomerata- The Clustered Bellflower is a strikingly beautiful purple-blue, but the foliage looks like crap afterwards, so hide it behind something that grows taller.
Campsis - The vigorous, rugged Trumpet vine. Keep it trimmed or give it plenty of room- no wimpy trellis. Can be trained like a shrub. Hummingbird magnet.
Centaurea montana -Perennial Batchelor Button. Nice in bloom, but cut it back after, as the foliage is messy. Usually reblooms.
Chelone - Turtlehead is a nice mid-late summer bloomer. Rugged, long lived, will grow in shallow water.
Cimicifuga racemosa- Bugbane. Native, invasive over time, don't plant it near a window, as the flowers don't smell good.
Cimicifuga "Brunette" might not have it, slow growing and hard to find replacements.
Convallaria- I often forget my Lily of the Valleys are in bloom, only to be reminded by their wonderful fragrance that fills the air. Invasive though, and tough as nails. If you kill these off, find a new hobby.
Coreopsis "Zagreb" I wish the hybridizers would use this one in their work- it is extremely hardy, vigorous and long lived, much more so than "Moonbeam", which blooms longer though. I've tried a number of other cultivars which were unreliable wintering over.
Corydalis lutea- extremely long bloomer for shade or part sun. Self sows. Will naturalize in a shade garden.
Corydalis sempervirens- A native biennial that likes full sun, average to poor soil. Tiny pink/yellow flowers. Self sows nicely. Hummingbirds.
Darmera- Damp soil a must for the Umbrella Plant. Early flowers on single stalks before the huge leaves.
Delphiniums- I have given up on these beauties because of disease problems mostly, also longevity.
Dianthus "Firewitch"- Fragrant, long lived, nice foliage, full sun.
Dicentra spectabilis - The foliage of Bleeding Heart turns yellow early, so hide it behind something that grows taller later.
Digitalis purpurea- The common Foxglove is a short lived perennial/biennial but usually self sows prolifically. You need to save the babies as replacements- don't go crazy mulching or weeding.
Digitalis lutea - This perennial Foxglove has yellow blooms that are less dramatic than its cousins', but it attracts Hummingbirds like mad.
Draba -4 inch high early mat of yellow blooms, first Spring flower in sunny spots. Worth it for earliness.
Echinacea- I've tried several of the newer expensive Coneflower cultivars and have been disappointed by their unreliability overwintering. I stick with the species purpurea, the older cultivars, and their seedlings.
Epimediums - The Barrenworts are great shade plants, even in dry shade. Short flowering time but good foliage. Rugged.
Eupatorium -Joe Pye is a nice, tall, late lavender bloomer. Attracts a lot of pollinators and likes wet feet. Sturdy too. Native.
Ferns- I appreciate all of them for their foliage, longevity, and ease of culture.
Gaillardia- I've given up on the Blanketflower simply because of problems overwintering.
Geranium "Rozanne" All the perennial Geraniums are worthy plants- "Rozanne" is the second longest blooming perennial behind Tradescantia. A bit floppy though.
Gillenia- Bowmans Root is an unappreciated, little known plant. Attractive foliage, 3 feet tall, delicate white flowers of short duration. Partial shade.
Grasses - I like the grasses, but not lawns. Spring, summer, fall into winter. Foliage, seed heads. color, form, texture, shape. For the shade, Carex "Blue Zinger" and Hakonechloa are my favorite contrasting blue/yellow grasses. Miscanthus "Purpurascens", Callamagrostis "Karl Foerster", and Panicum "Heavy Metal" are three of the ruggedest, tall sun lovers. None of these 5 died in the horrible winter of '18-'19.
Heliopsis h.- Long bloomer, good cut flower. Red aphids can be a problem, but they are easy to kill with soapy water, yet sometimes they are unrelenting. 2019 was a bad year for them. Watch for them and get them early.
Heliopsis s. "Bleeding Hearts" Striking flowers and foliage. I'm a bit unsure of their longevity. Seedlings are variable. Aphids were a bit problematic 3 years ago, keep an eye peeled.
Hellebores- I'm restricted to growing my own seedlings and divisions as the wholesale price of plants has exceeded $6. They are among my favorites- attractive evergreen foliage, early and long lasting flowers, reliable and deer resistant.
Hemerocallis- If you want some newly released variety of Daylily, you'll need to buy them elsewhere, as the cost of these are sky high. I have a pretty good selection of older varieties of plants though, and Daylilies are hard to kill.
Heucheras- Coral Bells are an enigma to me. I'll put 50 plants in shade, 50 in sun, and 50 in a mixture, and I'll have a whole array of different success rates. In each bed, some plants will be fantastic, some will be o.k., some will look like death warmed over, and some will die! Can't figure them out. They do look good though- when they're healthy.
Hibiscus- The last perennial to emerge from hibernation. Be patient. Don't dig it out thinking it's dead.
Hosta- You can't kill a Hosta. I have a fair selection-25 or so- but again, if you're looking for a newly released cultivar, look elsewhere, as the new varieties are way too expensive for me when first released.
Hydrangea a.- This slow growing vine has beautiful bark and white flowers when mature.
Inula r. - A ten footer! Late yellow blooms, doesn't mind wet feet, but it does self sow a lot. Bees, butterflies.
Iris germanica- Well drained soil a must for these old fashioned standards. I have 5 colors, most in short supply. Wholesale prices are outrageous.
Kirengeshoma- with yellow bells at 4 feet, maple like foliage. Moist soil and partial shade preferred.
Kitabelia- 6 feet, long flowering white mallow like blooms, shade, part sun, maple leaf foliage. Bees, butterflies.
Leucanthemum "Becky" -A very sturdy upright Shasta Daisy that is hardy and doesn't flop in rain or wind.
Ligularia - All the Ligularias like morning sun, afternoon shade. Slugs attack "Desdemona" and "Brit Marie Crawford"- I spread a non-toxic slug bait that contains iron phosphate as soon as the snow melts and once or twice a month after that. L. fischeri blooms with yellow spikes in September, October.
Lobelia cardinalis -The brilliant native Cardinal Flower needs wet soil or to be underwater to overwinter well. Along with red Bee Balm, it's the best hummingbird magnet.
Lobelia syphilitica - Great Blue Lobelia self sows prolifically- deadhead it soon after blooming.
Lupines- A nostalgia plant for many, its huge demand is the only reason I grow it! They're short flowering, have unattractive foliage after flowering, are aphid magnets, and need to reseed themselves to replace the short lived parents. Sorry to burst your bubble.
Lychnis coronaria- Biennial or short lived perennial, you have to let Rose Campion self seed and take care not to weed out or mulch over the replacement seedlings. Striking fuchsia blooms against gray foliage. Doesn't't like wet feet in winter.
Monarda d. "Gardenview Scarlet" - My favorite Bee Balm. It loves to be divided every 2 or 3 years. Loves compost. Hummingbirds love it. I keep trying new cultivars and am disappointed by their lack of vigor and unreliability over wintering.
Myosotis- The Forget-me-Not is a biennial/short lived perennial which seeds in reliably unless you mulch heavily or weed out the babies. Let it do its thing, sun or shade.
Nepeta "Walker's Low"- This is Catmint, not Catnip, but desperate cats are sometimes attracted to it. Long bloomer.
Pachysandra t. - A slow growing (at first) evergreen shade ground cover that eventually becomes aggressive.
Papaver orientale - I'm done growing and selling Oriental Poppies. Customers have a hard time growing them in spring and no one wants to buy them in September when they should be transplanted.
Paeonia- Peonies are increasingly hard to sell at $6, as they're slow to divide, slower to grow from seed if at all, and wholesale prices keep rising fast. Long lived and sun loving, plant the 'eyes' 2" below the soil surface and leave them alone for 10 or 20 years. Don't fret about the ants, they're not hurting a thing.
Penstemon "Dark Towers"- A favorite of mine, attractive purple foliage in full sun from May to October, pink flowers.
Perovskia - Full sun for the Russian Sage, average soil. Slow growing. Some folks have trouble with this one.
Persicaria bistorta "Superba" - Nice pink bottlebrush blooms, likes partial sun, moist rich soil.
Persicaria polymorpha- At 6 feet tall and very wide, give it plenty of room. White plumes over a very long time. Sun.
Phlomis t. -Unusual donut- like lavender blooms on tall stems and nice foliage, partial sun.
Phlox paniculata- All my tall Phlox are mildew resistant. Two of my own self propagated pink/purple varieties bloom very late- September into October.
Platycodon- Balloon flowers need well drained soil. Long blooming, long lived, sometimes late emerging from the soil.
Primula- I like the Primroses, and I keep trying new species. P. heucherifolia seems to grow best in compacted soil! P. japonica must have moist to wet soil, and will reseed itself vigorously. P. "Francesca" has really unusual green/yellow blooms.
Pulmonaria- I like the Lungworts too. They have crossed pollen in my gardens for 30 or more years, so I have a lot of plants with differing silver spots and overlays, in shades of blue, pink and occasionally white flowers. Hummingbirds visit them immediately on their return from the south, and honey and bumblebees are also on them in early spring.
Rodgersia- A slow growing shade lover with huge leaves, the Rogers Flower is another of my favorites. Long lived, low maintenance. The flowers look nice even after they turn into seed heads.
Rudbeckia fulgida f. -Long lived, long flowering, disease resistant, classic Brown Eyed Susan.
Salvia transylvanica- Unlike most Salvia cultivars, this species has an open airy habit.
Sanguinaria- The Bloodroot is very early blooming. Unfortunately the bright white flowers don't last long. Odd foliage, native, and I have a very limited number of double ones.
Sanguisorba- White spikes in September, attractive foliage, and the Canadian Burnett will grow in wet soil. Native, though I've yet to see it in the wild.
Sedum- Most like well drained soil in full sun. All attract honeybees. "Angelina" is gorgeous, appearing with orangy/bronze foliage when the snow departs. "Autumn Joy" is classic, common, but very reliable.
Silene armeria is a biennial that self seeds prolifically. I've had it in my gardens for over 35 years! Butterflies like mad.
Silphium p. - Yellow daisies on ten foot stalks in summer. Seldom gets floppy. Bees and butterflies like the flowers, and Goldfinches can't wait for the seeds to mature. It's a wonder I can save any seeds.
Stylophorum- This plant appeared in my shade gardens one year from who knows where. Nice foliage and flowers.
Succisa p. -Nice plant, shade or sun, lavender, marble sized flowers in August, September. Bees and butterflies.
Tanacetum p.- Feverfew self seeds prolifically, long bloomer of small white daisies, shade or sun.
Telekia- A fast grower reaching 5 feet and flowering golden yellow in June. I cut some of the flower stems back when they're done and the plant puts out huge attractive basal leaves and sometimes more flowers. Sun or shade, bees and butterflies.
Tradescantia- This colorful Spiderwort propagated itself in my gardens a few years back. It's a beautiful blueish purple, and it doesn't spread rampantly like some varieties. Extremely long blooming, closes up in the afternoon. Honeybees love it.
Tricyrtis h. -The common Toad Lily blooms beautifully in September, October, but needs to be seen close up to be appreciated.
Verbascum c.- Very showy, long blooming yellow or white spikes with purple stamens, but the foliage on this Mullein is coarse and not extremely attractive. Part shade or sun, it is a Bumble and Honey Bee magnet. Early in the morning, I can hear their buzzing on it from 40 or more feet away. Flowers close in the afternoon.
Vernonia n. Ironweed is a good substitute for Buddleja- Butterfly bush. It doesn't flower as long, but it is LONG lived and dependable, and it attracts butterflies like mad.
Achillea filipendula is the most long lived and reliable of the Yarrows, but it still may last only 5 years or so. Keep your eye out for scattered seedlings to replace the parent. My soil may be too rich for their tastes!
Achillea m. 'Pomegranate' I've had this one for 2 years, fingers crossed- seems to be hardy-excellent color.
Aconitum fischeri- nice autumn color, foliage is the best of the Monkshoods, DON'T eat- poisonous.
Agastache f. - short lived but reseeds dependably, licorice scented, bees love it.
Ajuga- Deer resistant, common tough ground cover, spreads aggressively. Bumblebees love it. Doesn't like dry soil.
Alcea ficifolia- This true perennial Hollyhock is supposedly rust resistant- it ain't, but it is spectacular and tall-10 feet plus.
Alchemilla mollis- Long lived, common, carefree Lady's Mantle does best in partial sun.
Allium schoenoprasum- Chives- nice flowers on an edible plant-I've had these forever, 35+ years
Allium tuberosum- Nice, late season white blooms on the Garlic Chives, but self sows aggressively. Deadhead it unless you want hundred of seedlings. Bees love it.
Anthemis tinctoria- Sometimes called Golden Marguerite, this one blooms forever if deadheaded, but you need to leave a few flowers to self sow and replace the short lived parents. Give it average soil.
Aquilegia- Columbine seem to perform best for me when they self seed themselves into places where I would not plant them!
Armoracea- Never forget where your Horseradish is and rototill it in, or you'll end up like my father did with hundreds of plants!
Artremisia schmidtiana- Silvermound -I've given up on these because of their unreliability overwintering. One winter I lost 50 out of 70 plants.
Asarum europeum European Ginger -Shiny, evergreen, low ground cover, always looks nice in shade.
Asclepias tuberosa -Butterfly weed likes full sun and well drained soil- never wet feet in winter. I almost always lose some to overwintering rot. Frustrating. Not a lot of orange perennials out there. Aphids sometimes a problem.
Asclepias incarnata- Unlike tuberosa, the Swamp Milkweed loves wet soil and will grow in shallow water. All Asclepias are host plants for Monarch Butterflies, and are honeybee and butterfly attracters. I've had problems with aphids on them. '19 was a bad year for them. Native.
Asters- Nice late summer flowers, also bee and butterfly attracters.
Astilbes- Nice foliage, nice flowers but not long bloomers though. Moist soil a must, especially in sun.
Baptisia -The species australis is long lived- my plants are seedlings from a parent plant 50 years old! The newer expensive cultivars have given me some trouble with foliage problems.
Buddleja- Butterfly Bush is an incredible butterfly attracter, but its longevity is impossible to predict. It may live 1 year, maybe 3, but seldom more. I'd never pay more than 6 bucks for one. (11th generation Yankee here!) See Vernonia as a sub.
Campanula glomerata- The Clustered Bellflower is a strikingly beautiful purple-blue, but the foliage looks like crap afterwards, so hide it behind something that grows taller.
Campsis - The vigorous, rugged Trumpet vine. Keep it trimmed or give it plenty of room- no wimpy trellis. Can be trained like a shrub. Hummingbird magnet.
Centaurea montana -Perennial Batchelor Button. Nice in bloom, but cut it back after, as the foliage is messy. Usually reblooms.
Chelone - Turtlehead is a nice mid-late summer bloomer. Rugged, long lived, will grow in shallow water.
Cimicifuga racemosa- Bugbane. Native, invasive over time, don't plant it near a window, as the flowers don't smell good.
Cimicifuga "Brunette" might not have it, slow growing and hard to find replacements.
Convallaria- I often forget my Lily of the Valleys are in bloom, only to be reminded by their wonderful fragrance that fills the air. Invasive though, and tough as nails. If you kill these off, find a new hobby.
Coreopsis "Zagreb" I wish the hybridizers would use this one in their work- it is extremely hardy, vigorous and long lived, much more so than "Moonbeam", which blooms longer though. I've tried a number of other cultivars which were unreliable wintering over.
Corydalis lutea- extremely long bloomer for shade or part sun. Self sows. Will naturalize in a shade garden.
Corydalis sempervirens- A native biennial that likes full sun, average to poor soil. Tiny pink/yellow flowers. Self sows nicely. Hummingbirds.
Darmera- Damp soil a must for the Umbrella Plant. Early flowers on single stalks before the huge leaves.
Delphiniums- I have given up on these beauties because of disease problems mostly, also longevity.
Dianthus "Firewitch"- Fragrant, long lived, nice foliage, full sun.
Dicentra spectabilis - The foliage of Bleeding Heart turns yellow early, so hide it behind something that grows taller later.
Digitalis purpurea- The common Foxglove is a short lived perennial/biennial but usually self sows prolifically. You need to save the babies as replacements- don't go crazy mulching or weeding.
Digitalis lutea - This perennial Foxglove has yellow blooms that are less dramatic than its cousins', but it attracts Hummingbirds like mad.
Draba -4 inch high early mat of yellow blooms, first Spring flower in sunny spots. Worth it for earliness.
Echinacea- I've tried several of the newer expensive Coneflower cultivars and have been disappointed by their unreliability overwintering. I stick with the species purpurea, the older cultivars, and their seedlings.
Epimediums - The Barrenworts are great shade plants, even in dry shade. Short flowering time but good foliage. Rugged.
Eupatorium -Joe Pye is a nice, tall, late lavender bloomer. Attracts a lot of pollinators and likes wet feet. Sturdy too. Native.
Ferns- I appreciate all of them for their foliage, longevity, and ease of culture.
Gaillardia- I've given up on the Blanketflower simply because of problems overwintering.
Geranium "Rozanne" All the perennial Geraniums are worthy plants- "Rozanne" is the second longest blooming perennial behind Tradescantia. A bit floppy though.
Gillenia- Bowmans Root is an unappreciated, little known plant. Attractive foliage, 3 feet tall, delicate white flowers of short duration. Partial shade.
Grasses - I like the grasses, but not lawns. Spring, summer, fall into winter. Foliage, seed heads. color, form, texture, shape. For the shade, Carex "Blue Zinger" and Hakonechloa are my favorite contrasting blue/yellow grasses. Miscanthus "Purpurascens", Callamagrostis "Karl Foerster", and Panicum "Heavy Metal" are three of the ruggedest, tall sun lovers. None of these 5 died in the horrible winter of '18-'19.
Heliopsis h.- Long bloomer, good cut flower. Red aphids can be a problem, but they are easy to kill with soapy water, yet sometimes they are unrelenting. 2019 was a bad year for them. Watch for them and get them early.
Heliopsis s. "Bleeding Hearts" Striking flowers and foliage. I'm a bit unsure of their longevity. Seedlings are variable. Aphids were a bit problematic 3 years ago, keep an eye peeled.
Hellebores- I'm restricted to growing my own seedlings and divisions as the wholesale price of plants has exceeded $6. They are among my favorites- attractive evergreen foliage, early and long lasting flowers, reliable and deer resistant.
Hemerocallis- If you want some newly released variety of Daylily, you'll need to buy them elsewhere, as the cost of these are sky high. I have a pretty good selection of older varieties of plants though, and Daylilies are hard to kill.
Heucheras- Coral Bells are an enigma to me. I'll put 50 plants in shade, 50 in sun, and 50 in a mixture, and I'll have a whole array of different success rates. In each bed, some plants will be fantastic, some will be o.k., some will look like death warmed over, and some will die! Can't figure them out. They do look good though- when they're healthy.
Hibiscus- The last perennial to emerge from hibernation. Be patient. Don't dig it out thinking it's dead.
Hosta- You can't kill a Hosta. I have a fair selection-25 or so- but again, if you're looking for a newly released cultivar, look elsewhere, as the new varieties are way too expensive for me when first released.
Hydrangea a.- This slow growing vine has beautiful bark and white flowers when mature.
Inula r. - A ten footer! Late yellow blooms, doesn't mind wet feet, but it does self sow a lot. Bees, butterflies.
Iris germanica- Well drained soil a must for these old fashioned standards. I have 5 colors, most in short supply. Wholesale prices are outrageous.
Kirengeshoma- with yellow bells at 4 feet, maple like foliage. Moist soil and partial shade preferred.
Kitabelia- 6 feet, long flowering white mallow like blooms, shade, part sun, maple leaf foliage. Bees, butterflies.
Leucanthemum "Becky" -A very sturdy upright Shasta Daisy that is hardy and doesn't flop in rain or wind.
Ligularia - All the Ligularias like morning sun, afternoon shade. Slugs attack "Desdemona" and "Brit Marie Crawford"- I spread a non-toxic slug bait that contains iron phosphate as soon as the snow melts and once or twice a month after that. L. fischeri blooms with yellow spikes in September, October.
Lobelia cardinalis -The brilliant native Cardinal Flower needs wet soil or to be underwater to overwinter well. Along with red Bee Balm, it's the best hummingbird magnet.
Lobelia syphilitica - Great Blue Lobelia self sows prolifically- deadhead it soon after blooming.
Lupines- A nostalgia plant for many, its huge demand is the only reason I grow it! They're short flowering, have unattractive foliage after flowering, are aphid magnets, and need to reseed themselves to replace the short lived parents. Sorry to burst your bubble.
Lychnis coronaria- Biennial or short lived perennial, you have to let Rose Campion self seed and take care not to weed out or mulch over the replacement seedlings. Striking fuchsia blooms against gray foliage. Doesn't't like wet feet in winter.
Monarda d. "Gardenview Scarlet" - My favorite Bee Balm. It loves to be divided every 2 or 3 years. Loves compost. Hummingbirds love it. I keep trying new cultivars and am disappointed by their lack of vigor and unreliability over wintering.
Myosotis- The Forget-me-Not is a biennial/short lived perennial which seeds in reliably unless you mulch heavily or weed out the babies. Let it do its thing, sun or shade.
Nepeta "Walker's Low"- This is Catmint, not Catnip, but desperate cats are sometimes attracted to it. Long bloomer.
Pachysandra t. - A slow growing (at first) evergreen shade ground cover that eventually becomes aggressive.
Papaver orientale - I'm done growing and selling Oriental Poppies. Customers have a hard time growing them in spring and no one wants to buy them in September when they should be transplanted.
Paeonia- Peonies are increasingly hard to sell at $6, as they're slow to divide, slower to grow from seed if at all, and wholesale prices keep rising fast. Long lived and sun loving, plant the 'eyes' 2" below the soil surface and leave them alone for 10 or 20 years. Don't fret about the ants, they're not hurting a thing.
Penstemon "Dark Towers"- A favorite of mine, attractive purple foliage in full sun from May to October, pink flowers.
Perovskia - Full sun for the Russian Sage, average soil. Slow growing. Some folks have trouble with this one.
Persicaria bistorta "Superba" - Nice pink bottlebrush blooms, likes partial sun, moist rich soil.
Persicaria polymorpha- At 6 feet tall and very wide, give it plenty of room. White plumes over a very long time. Sun.
Phlomis t. -Unusual donut- like lavender blooms on tall stems and nice foliage, partial sun.
Phlox paniculata- All my tall Phlox are mildew resistant. Two of my own self propagated pink/purple varieties bloom very late- September into October.
Platycodon- Balloon flowers need well drained soil. Long blooming, long lived, sometimes late emerging from the soil.
Primula- I like the Primroses, and I keep trying new species. P. heucherifolia seems to grow best in compacted soil! P. japonica must have moist to wet soil, and will reseed itself vigorously. P. "Francesca" has really unusual green/yellow blooms.
Pulmonaria- I like the Lungworts too. They have crossed pollen in my gardens for 30 or more years, so I have a lot of plants with differing silver spots and overlays, in shades of blue, pink and occasionally white flowers. Hummingbirds visit them immediately on their return from the south, and honey and bumblebees are also on them in early spring.
Rodgersia- A slow growing shade lover with huge leaves, the Rogers Flower is another of my favorites. Long lived, low maintenance. The flowers look nice even after they turn into seed heads.
Rudbeckia fulgida f. -Long lived, long flowering, disease resistant, classic Brown Eyed Susan.
Salvia transylvanica- Unlike most Salvia cultivars, this species has an open airy habit.
Sanguinaria- The Bloodroot is very early blooming. Unfortunately the bright white flowers don't last long. Odd foliage, native, and I have a very limited number of double ones.
Sanguisorba- White spikes in September, attractive foliage, and the Canadian Burnett will grow in wet soil. Native, though I've yet to see it in the wild.
Sedum- Most like well drained soil in full sun. All attract honeybees. "Angelina" is gorgeous, appearing with orangy/bronze foliage when the snow departs. "Autumn Joy" is classic, common, but very reliable.
Silene armeria is a biennial that self seeds prolifically. I've had it in my gardens for over 35 years! Butterflies like mad.
Silphium p. - Yellow daisies on ten foot stalks in summer. Seldom gets floppy. Bees and butterflies like the flowers, and Goldfinches can't wait for the seeds to mature. It's a wonder I can save any seeds.
Stylophorum- This plant appeared in my shade gardens one year from who knows where. Nice foliage and flowers.
Succisa p. -Nice plant, shade or sun, lavender, marble sized flowers in August, September. Bees and butterflies.
Tanacetum p.- Feverfew self seeds prolifically, long bloomer of small white daisies, shade or sun.
Telekia- A fast grower reaching 5 feet and flowering golden yellow in June. I cut some of the flower stems back when they're done and the plant puts out huge attractive basal leaves and sometimes more flowers. Sun or shade, bees and butterflies.
Tradescantia- This colorful Spiderwort propagated itself in my gardens a few years back. It's a beautiful blueish purple, and it doesn't spread rampantly like some varieties. Extremely long blooming, closes up in the afternoon. Honeybees love it.
Tricyrtis h. -The common Toad Lily blooms beautifully in September, October, but needs to be seen close up to be appreciated.
Verbascum c.- Very showy, long blooming yellow or white spikes with purple stamens, but the foliage on this Mullein is coarse and not extremely attractive. Part shade or sun, it is a Bumble and Honey Bee magnet. Early in the morning, I can hear their buzzing on it from 40 or more feet away. Flowers close in the afternoon.
Vernonia n. Ironweed is a good substitute for Buddleja- Butterfly bush. It doesn't flower as long, but it is LONG lived and dependable, and it attracts butterflies like mad.